Let's do a REAL Glue Survey, Where we can Talk Freely...

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splitcane	Let's do a REAL Glue Survey, Where we can Talk Freely...		Lead	[-]
Posts: 531 09/09/08 18:31:23	I have not expressed my views on the subject because I'm amazed at the amount of bad mouthing Gorilla Glue gets every time the subject comes up. I have done extensive testing and building with Gorilla Glue and if done correctly you will not fine a better glue for Cane in my opinion. I have never bought into the Epoxy Revolution with the expense, short shelf life and critical mixing needed seems like the hard way to go with lots of room for failure. My fear of Epoxy comes from the Sign industry were I use designer epoxy's of many brews for many years and have had catastrophic failures with no apparent reason, make's you wonder about the stuff you have in the field already. Many a fine rod have been built with epoxy, with many more to come I just think the Poly Glues are better for this application... Anyway here's my talking points, please share yours... The Poly Glues have had a short life here in the States but have been used in Europe for over 40 Years... It only stands to reason that a penetrating glue that flex's with the cane is the way to go... My whole Philosophy on building Cane is to make everything move in Harmony... Now you know where I Stand before I Sit... What Say You...? Take Care, Dave Denver Dave's Vintage Bamboo Fly Rods Last Edited By: splitcane 09/10/08 02:35:10. Edited 5 times.
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fishbum		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 14 09/10/08 10:22:32	I say for structural integrety recorsinol is the very best adhesive on the planet for rod making. If people would just learn to view the purple stained gluelines as a mark of quality and badge of honor a lot more makers would be using it. Any glue that foams would defeat my rod design. I make most of my rods hollow. I see no way to control that foaming on the inside of the rod. I personally use Nyatex and will continue untill the gallon I have on hand is used up or it goes bad. The shelf life of Nyatex is good if stored in a cool place. The heat resistance is good. Mixing is not so critical that one has to worry about ratios of part "A" to part "B". Just get the portions as equal as possible. You have a long time to get your sections straight before the adhesive sets. There ya go. You now have a second opinion. fishbum
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Joe Arguello	Titebond III	#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 160 09/10/08 10:43:18	Well, I used to use URAC but I had a rod delam right out of the oven and it scared the hi% out of me so I went to Titebond III works well, food safe (in case you ever have to eat your fly rod) and I can straighten a rod with a heat gun with no problems. I am sure it will work just fine if you don't fish in your dishwasher, oven or decide to hide your favorite rod at the bottom of a lake. Did I say how easy it is to use? No mixing, just put down some paper on your bench, squirt on some glue, brush it with a toothbursh (you need to heat the toothbrush and bend it!) and bind. Clean up is just as easy, wad up the paper, and wash the toothbrush with water, ready for the next section. So now you have a third opinion. Joe When it's all said and done, there's always more said than done!* www.jea-bamboo-flyrods.com
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SUNNFRANCE		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 40 09/10/08 11:51:25	hello....j'utilise la colle SADER VERTE polyuréthane (intérieur extérieur ) http://img252.imageshack....g252/2787/imgp0643fu7.jpg Voici un essai de déformation à chaud après collage avec cette colle http://img509.imageshack....9/8353/imgp1068ul0zb0.jpg j'utilise aussi la colle BOSTIK polyuréthane bois exotique D4 je suis très satisfait de ces deux colles.... Beaucoup de constructeur Francais utilise la colle SADER bleue bicomposant..... hello fishbum : what's Nyatex ?? have you a photo?? Last Edited By: SUNNFRANCE 09/10/08 13:00:14. Edited 6 times.
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Troutgetter		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 38 09/10/08 16:24:05	I use Nyatex. Now you have 3.5 opinions. If I wanted foaming bubbles, I'd hire a maid. 8^) www.fishbamboo.com
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splitcane	Thanks for the input guy's, some good stuff...	#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 531 09/10/08 18:02:35	I Have learned to use and control the foaming to my advantage and it shows the penetrating action. I to Hollow Build most of my rods using a Dam and Channel method, at glue up I use a squeeze to remove the glue from the channel wall and proceed to binding. I have done many test sections, then cut open to revel no foam in the channels. Plus once bound the channel is pressurized so to say and any foaming action flows out instead of into the channel. Works great on other operations such as cork, seat, ferrules and fracture repairs... Sun that's what I call a heat deformation test using Poly Glues..."-) Take Care, Dave Denver Dave's Vintage Bamboo Fly Rods
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Troutgetter		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 38 09/10/08 19:31:07	Oh...that's just wrong...nonconformist. www.fishbamboo.com
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Hexaholic.clarksclassicfl...		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 22 09/11/08 13:18:51	Dave, Im going to give Gorilla Glue a try on my next rod. Do you put water on the strips before applying? If so how much would be sufficent? Mike Peck
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Snowman.clarksclassicfl...		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 3 09/11/08 15:17:23	I have always been a fan of Gorilla Glue from the time I built my drift boat. I have made 3 rods using the stuff and have been quite satisfied with the experience. I have used TBIII and Resorcinol as well and had difficulty getting everything done and bound (I'm on rod #7 so not that fast yet) before the glue set up. With Gorilla G you have lots of time for straightening and binding before it begins to set up. The foaming is easy to control and clean up if you don't wait too long. The penetration is really amazing. I am the guy who made two 1x6's into a permanent fixture on my workbench by laying one on the bench, adding Gorllia Glue and clamping the other one on top. The glue travelled all the way through the wood. All I wanted was a mahogany 2x6 for building my boat seat. Had to take it off with a chisel---in rather small pieces I might add. Steve
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splitcane	Yes... Wetting the strips is Very Important as GG use the water as a carrying agent and kicks the glue...	#9	[url]	[-]
Posts: 531 09/12/08 06:55:19	Once the section is ready to bind, open the section and mist with a spray bottle till the section is wet. Shake any excess water off the section, place on paper and apply GG with a tooth brush. The water you apply will dissipate within 24/48 hours at 90* and the water controls the foaming and work time, less water, less foaming and longer work time but on hard woods water is a must... If you live in a Wet Climate that alone will kick the glue so you must cap securely and use a Compressed Gas Duster Product to stop it kicking the glue in the container. I buy the little 4oz bottles at ACE and that's enough to do 3 to 4 rods and I can easily resupply, so I'm constantly getting fresh glue and life is good... Take Care, Dave Denver Dave's Vintage Bamboo Fly Rods
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asullivangarner		#10	[url]	[-]
Posts: 8 09/12/08 10:28:05	I asked, "What heated temp will gorilla glue start to loosen?" This came straight from the folks at gorilla glue: Thank you for your e-mail. In answer to your question, Gorilla Glue working temperature range is 40°-130°. Gorilla Glue will not change properties at all under temperatures up to about 338° and will not be affected at temperatures below freezing. Temperatures above 338° are not recommended. Gorilla Glue should not be used if the object will come in direct contact with fames. In that case, you will need to use a retardant adhesive. The thing that I wonder about any product that I use, is how will it react. Since I do not know the properties of some of the other glues, it is hard to say how GG compares, but I believe it is worth considering... The other thing I consider is what will happen when I have to fix, repair or otherwise disassemble something. Can I take one part apart, without damaging the other parts. Since I have only restored a few rods, for myself, and have never done any planing or gluing, etc, my thoughts are entirely hypothetical, but still mostly valid, at least in my own mind. Later, Andrew
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bbamboo		#11	[url]	[-]
Posts: 63 09/12/08 10:57:34	I used to use Epoxy for all my rods UHU No problems never had a delaminated rod So why did I change. Titebond 111 requires no mixing, its fast and strong And most important non toxic If your using a lot of the stuff its really worth taking this into account. Why kill yourself Other benefits are water clean up Must say I am not a fan of gorilla glue or any polyurethane glue for that matter. Too sticky and messy for me Hell its worse than animal glue Yes I know you can remove the foaming with acetone. But that's a solvent. So I don't use it. On the subject of resorcinol (hope I spelled that right) I agree its good stuff but the colour is a killer. Can anyone sell rods with a purple glue line? gary www.nichobamboorods.com
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moon8462.clarksclassicfl...		#12	[url]	[-]
Posts: 35 09/14/08 17:02:28	OK, so I'm one of the outcasts... but up until now I've used epon. It's got a great shelf life, it's easy to use and has a long set time when binding. I was sent a small sample of the "Boo Boys" glue and kicker, but haven't used it yet. I'm getting ready to on my next batch of rods. (Let's face it, they've used it for over 30 years and it's hard to find an old Winston that's delammed.) Mike St. Clair St. Clair & Hynes Rodsmiths www.schflyrods.com
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splitcane		#13	[url]	[-]
Posts: 531 09/15/08 05:56:13	I think all the glues mentioned are probably 10x stronger then they need to be to complete the job at hand and hold up to years of abuse... I was watching the History Channel Special on Glues, without the specialized epoxies we would not have many of the things we have today. For example a 747 has over 50lbs of epoxies holding it together, replacing 1000's of pounds of hardware it would take to do the same job. Funny how things come full circle, the newest O' my God glues are based on Hide Glue from the Muscle... Take Care, Dave Denver Dave's Vintage Bamboo Fly Rods
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Mark Shamburg		#14	[url]	[-]
Posts: 14 09/18/08 16:31:10	I really like the convenience of PU glues. I have found that after 5-6 hours the glue is set up enough that you can remove the string and sand off the excess glue. It's set up well enough to work with but is exponentially easier to clean up than after several days. I can completely clean up a bound section in 15 minutes doing it this way and it requires no scraping at all. The string pulls off and the glue sands off and I don't have the added concern of damaging the corners like I do with my 212 scraper. Plus as Dave says you can buy the small bottles and replace them often so you are always using fresh good glue. I have though, recently started using EPON. The working time is amazing and clean up the blanks is only slightly more difficult. Will have to do a few more rods with it to see which I like better. Mark
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