This might be mostly for Joe, but I am wondering what other people's experiences have been with knife-sharpening. So, the biggest problem I have been
having is using the "X"-shaped sharpeners that have two steel (or ceramic) rods crossed, and you run the knife through them. I can not get them to
keep a point on the very tip of the blade. This is extremely important to me, as I mostly use knife points to remove bamboo slivers
. But, I like the ease and results of this type of sharpener. So, I use them until
the point rounds a bit, then go to a stone to put the point back on (which takes forever, even with a coarse stone). I don't use a stone that often, mostly
b/c it's just quicker to use the X-type rods. The brand I have been using is the Edgemaker. I got frustrated, and called the owners, and they said they
didn't have any problem keeping points on thier blades. I think they are full of #**$, quite honestly. But that makes me wonder if I just haven't been
using them correctly.
For background, I have been around lots of knives and lots of sharpeners. I worked for a period at a meat processing plant, helping butcher and skin and cape
dozens of animals a day. I have asked every one I worked with for pointers on sharpening, and what their preference was for sharpeners. It seemed most used the
X-type (Edgemaster) for a quick sharpen, then they would go to the back room at day's end, drink a Budweiser and put their knife on the stone to get the
edge back. Points are especially important in that line of work, for caping, and staring cuts around the legs. Anyway, any more information will hopefully help
hone my knife-sharpening skills, eh! Thanks ahead of time.
Zac
Sharp, pointy knives!
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 Curley |
Sharp, pointy knives! |
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Posts: 140 02/03/09 14:33:56 |
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ghstrydr164 |
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Posts: 37 02/03/09 16:16:33 |
I am an x knife maker and professional sharpener and the best and easiest way to put an edge on a knife is with an abrasive belt and sewn cloth buffing wheel with some green rouge. I recommend a 120 grit belt for sharpening. The buff is also great for maintaining serrated edge knives. If they require grinding only grind the flat side with a very steep angle until you can see a frosted edge on the beveled side, then buff alternating on both sides until you can draw the edge thru paper without having any burrs catch the paper.
Practice sharpening on a few knives that you don't care about until you gain a feel for it and when you buff keep the back side of the knife from catching the buff because if it does it will make a quick trip around and cut the hand you are supporting the blade with, this will generally happen toward the tip so just bring the knife handle gradually back toward you while keeping the tip end against the buff. Always alternate sides when sharpening or buffing (stropping) the knife edge to remove burrs. An occasional buffing will help keep the edge sharp for a longer period before needing grind the edge again.
Make quick passes with the knife alternating sides on straight edge knives on the belt and buff. Best control is to
hold the knife by the handle and support the blade with light pressure from a couple of fingers pressed against the back of blade while locking your elbows
into your sides and rocking your body pulling the knife across the belt from the back of the edge to the point. Make
light alternating passes until you can observe an even frosted edge on the opposite side of the edge you last made a pass on.
Last Edited By: ghstrydr164 02/03/09 16:36:34.
Edited 3 times.
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Curley |
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Posts: 140 02/05/09 08:24:03 |
Great; thank you!
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